News:

Actually sport it is a narrative

Main Menu

Workshop and fixit stuff

Started by Dave, July 10, 2017, 07:26:50 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

hermes2015

Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 02:33:09 PM
A soldering iron would probably work well, especially if the screws are aluminum though I can't say whether they are or not. You will want a hollow ground driver for those screws that's as tight a fit as possible. If you can find a spec from Nikon or measure the slot yourself you'd be miles ahead.

PB Swiss makes excellent slotted drivers if they are available in South Africa. They are expensive but the cost would, I think, pale in comparison to that of your lens. Gedore might be more readily available in your area but I don't know whether they offer hollow ground drivers or not.

Another possibility is to take your lens to a gunsmith. They tens to have a wide selection of hollow ground drivers due to their work and might be able to help you. At least around here they would.

Thanks for the advice. I did a quick search and PB Swiss tools are available here. Gedore is also available everywhere.
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

Dave

Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.
Tomorrow is precious, don't ruin it by fouling up today.
Passed Monday 10th Dec 2018 age 74

hermes2015

Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.

I will definitely not put my faith a my kitchen oven, but will use a GC oven that controls to 0.01°C.  I will first get the correct driver before I attempt anything.
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

jumbojak

Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.

It might make the screw itself marginally tighter, but it's the locktite that he needs to be concerned about. I've had good luck getting rusty crap apart with a sufficiently sized torch on bolts where heating the part wasn't a practical option. Usually that torch is a welder.

"Amazing what chimney sweeping can teach us, no? Keep your fire hot and
your flue clean."  - Ecurb Noselrub

"I'd be incensed by your impudence were I not so impressed by your memory." - Siz

hermes2015

Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 02:48:10 PM
Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.

It might make the screw itself marginally tighter, but it's the locktite that he needs to be concerned about. I've had good luck getting rusty crap apart with a sufficiently sized torch on bolts where heating the part wasn't a practical option. Usually that torch is a welder.

I think the Nikon SWAT team will come to get me if I took a welder to the lens.
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

Tank

If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.
If religions were TV channels atheism is turning the TV off.
"Religion is a culture of faith; science is a culture of doubt." ― Richard P. Feynman
'It is said that your life flashes before your eyes just before you die. That is true, it's called Life.' - Terry Pratchett
Remember, your inability to grasp science is not a valid argument against it.

hermes2015

Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

Tank

Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
Hence the double bag! :D
If religions were TV channels atheism is turning the TV off.
"Religion is a culture of faith; science is a culture of doubt." ― Richard P. Feynman
'It is said that your life flashes before your eyes just before you die. That is true, it's called Life.' - Terry Pratchett
Remember, your inability to grasp science is not a valid argument against it.

hermes2015

Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:46:53 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
Hence the double bag! :D

:thumbsup:
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

Dave

Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:46:53 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
Hence the double bag! :D

Most donmestic ovens start at 50C, but I would check that with your lab thermo first. Warm it to that with a thermal reservoir (brick) in it then switch off before you put the lens in.

Lab thermo: souvenir from work is it?

:wink:
Tomorrow is precious, don't ruin it by fouling up today.
Passed Monday 10th Dec 2018 age 74

Tank

Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:55:11 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:46:53 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
Hence the double bag! :D

:thumbsup:

You could by a crap old lens on ebay and experiment on that first.
If religions were TV channels atheism is turning the TV off.
"Religion is a culture of faith; science is a culture of doubt." ― Richard P. Feynman
'It is said that your life flashes before your eyes just before you die. That is true, it's called Life.' - Terry Pratchett
Remember, your inability to grasp science is not a valid argument against it.

hermes2015

Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 04:20:58 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:46:53 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:39:18 PM
Quote from: Tank on August 11, 2018, 03:31:53 PM
If you have a cooking thermometer you could heat a pan of water to 50° C and then double bag the lens and lower it into the water.

I was considering that, but I'm a bit nervous about leakage. I have a good -10 to +110° lab thermometer I can use.
Hence the double bag! :D

Most donmestic ovens start at 50C, but I would check that with your lab thermo first. Warm it to that with a thermal reservoir (brick) in it then switch off before you put the lens in.

Lab thermo: souvenir from work is it?

:wink:

Yes, kindly donated by the company.
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

jumbojak

Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:06:28 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 02:48:10 PM
Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.

It might make the screw itself marginally tighter, but it's the locktite that he needs to be concerned about. I've had good luck getting rusty crap apart with a sufficiently sized torch on bolts where heating the part wasn't a practical option. Usually that torch is a welder.

I think the Nikon SWAT team will come to get me if I took a welder to the lens.

Nah, Nikon doesn't have a SWAT team. They send ninjas...

"Amazing what chimney sweeping can teach us, no? Keep your fire hot and
your flue clean."  - Ecurb Noselrub

"I'd be incensed by your impudence were I not so impressed by your memory." - Siz

hermes2015

Quote from: jumbojak on August 12, 2018, 03:13:10 AM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 03:06:28 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 02:48:10 PM
Quote from: Dave on August 11, 2018, 02:43:35 PM
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 11, 2018, 02:21:54 PM
Quote from: jumbojak on August 11, 2018, 01:18:37 PM
So long as it's not one of the "red" variants of locktite you should be fine with a quality driver. Of red you will want to use some heat to soften the compound before attempting and it can take a lot of heat. A small impact driver may help as well if you think the lens can stand up to some gentle tapping. What type of screws are they? I can't make it out from the photo.

They are this type.


One guy recommends heating the lens at 55°C for 0.5 hours. Lenses are designed withstand this. Another says to heat the screw head with a soldering iron.

I was going to suggest heating the screwdriver firstt, that would work better with Philips screws, but heating the screw would make it expand jn the hole, maybe making it tighter. Hesting the whoke lens would be better.

It might make the screw itself marginally tighter, but it's the locktite that he needs to be concerned about. I've had good luck getting rusty crap apart with a sufficiently sized torch on bolts where heating the part wasn't a practical option. Usually that torch is a welder.

I think the Nikon SWAT team will come to get me if I took a welder to the lens.

Nah, Nikon doesn't have a SWAT team. They send ninjas...

:)
"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames

hermes2015

I think I should try to project a more butch image by wearing one of these.

"Who is to say that pleasure is useless?"
― Charles Eames