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Started by Tank, July 30, 2018, 10:37:09 AM
Quote from: jumbojak on July 11, 2019, 03:43:39 PMI'd personally rather have a variety than a hoard of duplicates. If one dies on you then you will be out the cost of a replacement, this is true. But you might be able to justify a better piece of glass in the same focal range if and when that time comes if you have to find a replacement.Think about it, if you wear out a lens - unlikely, I know - then that lens and its capabilities are important to the work you do. Hell, if you damage it at the beach because that's the lens you always have with you it comes out to the same thing. It gives the opportunity to upgrade the workhorses should something bad happen.
Quote from: jumbojak on August 04, 2019, 02:40:47 PMWhat's the advantage of that method?
Quote from: Bluenose on August 05, 2019, 03:04:07 AMHmm... maybe it's my photographic beginning with a Minolta 35 mm SLR, but I'm sure with my Canon DSLR I can focus using the focus ring on the lens, which seems most natural to me. I'l have to check now, when I get home, to see if I remember this correctly... LOL
Quote from: hermes2015 on August 05, 2019, 04:59:58 AMQuote from: Bluenose on August 05, 2019, 03:04:07 AMHmm... maybe it's my photographic beginning with a Minolta 35 mm SLR, but I'm sure with my Canon DSLR I can focus using the focus ring on the lens, which seems most natural to me. I'l have to check now, when I get home, to see if I remember this correctly... LOLThat is a feature of some lenses; some do it, some don't. The lens I use most often allows one to focus manually as well, but these days I rarely do that, unless I have to for some reason.
Quote from: jumbojak on September 01, 2019, 07:29:33 PMI've developed a bit of a workflow now. With the camera, I get multiple exposures of whatever subject I'm working with. I genuinely prefer manual to the shutter and aperture priority modes, aside from special circumstances. The only time I use either priority modes is shutter priority at the gym to capture motion, and that's only because the constant ISO adjustment due to lighting makes manual too slow. For editing I drop the RAW images into dated subfolders and import them into Darktable for viewing and assessment. Any one off shots get their first adjustment here and then I go into Photomatix for any HDR image processing. Sometimes Photomatix does a better job with single photos too so that's always an option. From there, each second draft is loaded into Gimp 2 for touchups and rotations. I've found that the color picker tool and brush in Gimp can be used to remove motion artifacts in HDR drafts. This photo required that treatment:That final image is composed of six different shots which took a little over a minute to take. In that time the crescent moon moved a lot. It's amazing just how quickly the moon and the sun trace their arc across the sky. So, with the color picker and brush in Gimp I was able to "erase" the fainter, ghost crescents leaving a single, relatively sharp moon and its light cast onto the water. Once the horizon has been adjusted - the angular changes are much finer in Gimp than either Darktable or Photomatix - the final image is ready for export as a PNG file.
Quote from: jumbojak on September 02, 2019, 02:28:54 PMI keep forgetting to switch to back button. Better do that now...